In 1366, Cistercian monks laid the stones that delineated the famed Clos de Vougeot in Burgundy. This, of course, wasn’t the first instance in which a vineyard had been recognised for its ability to yield great and unique fruit, producing irreplicable wine that speaks — truly and singularly — of the place from which the fruit comes. In both the New and Old Worlds, an enormous amount of time and effort has been invested into recognising these vineyards, ensuring their place both in popular (vinous) culture and posterity. But the climate is changing, causing winemakers around the world to re-evaluate their lot and forcing them to ponder difficult and pressing questions about what is considered a good site in terms of varietal suitability, elevation, aspect and reassess their overall approach to farming.
One producer whose contemplation has resulted in action is Chalmers. Founded by Bruce and Jenni Chalmers in the 80’s, their vineyard in Euston, New South Wales grew into a grape growing hub that now yields fruit for many producers. The twin venture to grape growing was their nursery, through which they imported and cultivated over 70 Italian varieties.
“It is the symbiosis of the small, large and everything in between that allows new ideas to ferment meaningfully”
Before we proceed any further, a caveat: Chalmers is a large operation.
We believe that small is beautiful in many ways and have a great appreciation for vignerons who farm tiny plots of land with great passion. We also believe that larger operations have the resources, financial and otherwise, to explore ideas which smaller ones are unable to. Their place in the Australian wine landscape has played a significant role in the progression and mobility of viticulture. It is the symbiosis of the small, large and everything in between that allows new ideas to ferment meaningfully.
“Paradigm shifts are imminent, and it seems to be the hard-earned knowledge of previous generations combined with the ingenuity and concern of younger generations that is resulting in meaningful action”
The Chalmers sold the Euston vineyard in 2008 to purchase vineyards in Heathcote and Merbein. The former produces estate wines while selling fruit to local producers, the latter produces some fruit for bottling and sale while being home to their nursery and research ground into rootstocks, varietal suitability and harvest dates amongst other curiosities.
It’s in Merbein that Chalmers, now helmed by second generation Kim and Tennille, chose to plant the Bush Vine Project where the winemaking is overseen by Kim’s husband Bart van Olphen. The vineyard comprises negroamaro and inzolia planted in 2017 to an orange grove that, despite being left abandoned and unirrigated for over six years, continued to fruit. These grapes, native to Puglia and western Sicily respectively, received significantly less rainfall in Merbein than they did in their homelands — an anomaly that piqued the curiosity of the Chalmers. Despite having cultivated this land for over four decades, Bruce Chalmers is taken aback by the health and vigour of these plantings as they defy conventional viticultural thinking.
As humans we’re prone to believing that what was and what is, will continue to be. We know that circumstances change but have a persistent tendency (or desire perhaps?) to believe that our actions can continue despite those changes. When those circumstances literally change the landscape within which we live and work, there is no choice but to explore new possibilities. Paradigm shifts are imminent, and it seems to be the hard-earned knowledge of previous generations combined with the ingenuity and concern of younger generations that is resulting in meaningful action.
In 2017, Yarra Valley stalwart Mac Forbes signed a 30-year lease on a 4ha south facing vineyard in Don Valley. Traditionally, maximum exposure to sunlight was desirable, meaning north facing vineyards in the southern hemisphere and south facing in the northern. But as sunlight transforms from prized to persistent, vineyards planted in traditional orientation are ripening too quickly and being threatened by sunburn.
The changing climate is also turning the wines of previously less prized areas, like that of the Hautes-Côtes in Burgundy, more consistent and substantial. The grapes here would typically ripen a week to a fortnight later due to its higher elevation, sometimes not ripening at all, resulting in insipid wines.
The same effect is being experienced in Germany’s Mosel Valley, where, according to the current steward of Weingut Dr. Loosen, Erni Loosen, his father and grandfather would be fortunate to experience three ripe vintages in every 10.
These examples suggest that change is afoot. This, of course, is not to say that climate change is a positive force, but rather, presents an opportunity to explore the nuance of these changes and how to respond to them. In the coming decades, the questions of where vineyards will be planted, which varieties they will be planted to, at which elevation and exposition, and who will be planting them are all crucial. It seems, at this point, that we have more questions than answers.