A Brief History of the Pub

Pubs have long been deeply intertwined with Melbourne’s social fabric. They’re a weekly ritual for friendship groups; somewhere to yell loudly at a screen during AFL season; a venue that allows an open-invite for not-milestone birthdays. At pubs, you’re welcome to stay for as little or as long as you please  and trade the headache of split bills for rounds of jugs.

‘Brand pub’ is synonymous with comfort: everyone is welcome, no expectations.

The origin of the pub draws all the way back to Australia’s supposed convict origins; historically they existed as a third place for working-class men who had no space to socialise within their own modest homes. This is also why there are comparatively few to be found in New Zealand, which was settled by wealthier Protestants who entertained people in their living rooms– God bless them. 

By the 1960s, the large wave of post-war European migrants brought ideas of cosmopolitan leisure to the masses, introducing bistros, wine lists and a clientele that valued urban life. Very quickly, pubs had to compete against restaurants with BYO liquor licences and respond to changing social values that demanded social spaces for more than just rowdy working-class men. Women wanted to drink in public bars, for instance (though it wasn’t until 1966 that the law against it was overturned). So to keep their doors open, pubs had to cater to a broader audience, leading to the introduction of outdoor drinking areas (beer gardens), live music (pub rock), and cheap meals targeted at university students. 

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Enter Gastropubs

More recently, the rapid gentrification of Australian cities’ inner suburbs (and the rapid expansion of foodie culture) birthed the gastropub: establishments that sought to combine the experience of restaurants with the narrative of pubs. 

All pubs have to maintain a semblance of the everyday, because they reflect the great Australian cultural myth: we are a classless society who backs its battlers. Contravening that narrative is a one-way ticket straight to A Current Affair. 

But, changing consumer profiles necessitate an elevation in the standard of experience. Put another way, when you have Asian restaurants taking you all the way to Flavourtown and back for sub-$30, dropping a pineapple for a defrosted parma and a pint of Carlton is just not going to cut it. 

This is where brand strategy comes in. When we think about a brand, typically we imagine their logos, messaging, design, website, marketing and comms effort. But underpinning that is a strategy: an intentional crafting of every aspect of the experience to evoke a specific feeling.

In the case of gastropubs, the brand is designed to evoke a dual sense of luxury and ease, making patrons feel like they’re getting an upscale experience without the pretentiousness of a fine dining establishment. And that lack of pretension is important because the fine dining experience, or even the wine bar experience, does not work for the average punter. 

It’s easy to forget how intimidating this experience can be when you’re not mates with the server. Leather-bound wine tomes, staff clad in black-and-white suits or part-time DJ’s in bleached caps and obscurely named, stingily-portioned dishes– all combine to form a subtext that reads, if you are not a regular attendee of the Euro summer club, babe, we are not for you.

Gastropubs borrow the pleasant elements of the wine bar experience while jettisoning its classist perceptions. Wine lists with no bad options. Seltzers and craft beers on tap alongside Carlton draughts. Menus of familiar dishes with a upmarket, but kitsch twist: roo schnitties, chorizo scotch eggs, retired dairy cow cheeseburgers. Where seasonal small plates keep decreasing in portion size, pub food is guaranteed to be generous and hearty. The fit-outs are luxurious yet cosy, prioritising warmth and comfort over austerity.

It helps that these places are run by some of the most competent, incredibly dialled in, people in the industry. The food is actually really good, and many are taking a conscientious approach to sourcing their produce. Gastropubs partner with some of the best interior design agencies in Melbourne like Bergman and Co. or Studio Co&Co. It’s professional. 

This combination of premium and comfort allows gastropubs to raise the consumer price anchor. Suddenly, $50 for a dinner doesn’t seem expensive for a pub; it feels like a steal for a nice restaurant. This brand premiumisation is particularly effective in an economic climate plagued by cozzie livs - everyone is hunting for value. Value is formed in the delta between the perceived experience and what you’re made to pay for it - people are concurrently trading down from low-value extravagant experiences as they trade up from low-value generic pub offerings. 

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So, Are Gastropubs Just Pub-Themed Wine Bars?

In a way, yes. They’ve taken the best parts of wine bar culture—great food, a premium on ambiance, a curated experience—and packaged them in a way that feels welcoming and inclusive. Gastropubs underscore the power of brand in the hospitality industry. By blending the familiar with the luxurious, these establishments have carved out a niche that appeals to a wide range of consumers. 

These are the lessons of the modern luxury industry: offer something elevated, but offer it to everyone. The gastropub is the equivalent of a Louis Vuitton phone case, a Balenciaga dad cap, Gucci socks. An opportunity to be welcomed to a world you didn’t know you were allowed into. 

The gastropub brand isn’t trying to pretend to be something it’s not. These venues are simply responding to the evolving tastes of Melbourne’s yuppie diners. The success of gastropubs lies in their ability to adapt to these changing tastes while staying true to the core values of what makes a pub a pub: good food, good drink, and a space where everyone feels like they belong.

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sporting club Hotel, Brunswick
Chicken schnitzel $28

North fitzroy arms, Fitzroy North
Crumbed pork cutlet $38

Courthouse Hotel, North Melbourne
Chicken schnitzel $30

The Lincoln, Carlton
Chicken schnitzel $31

Royal Oak, Fitzroy North
Chicken schnitzel $32

Napier Hotel, Fitzroy
Chicken parmigiana with ham or smoked kangaroo, fries and salad $30